By Leslie Jonath and Frankie Frankeny

Nothing embodies the earthy flavors of autumn more that mushrooms. This soothing recipe, from Comfort Me with Apples by Gourmet editor in chief Ruth Reichl, is as delicious as it is simple to make. You can use simple button mushrooms or a combination of wild mushrooms such as chanterelles and porcini.

• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 small onion
• 8 ounces fresh mushrooms – thinly sliced
• ¼ cup all purpose flour
• 1 cup Beef stock or vegetable stock
• 2 cups half-and-half
• ¼ teaspoons ground nutmeg
• 1 bay leaf
• Salt
• Freshly ground pepper

Melt butter in a heavy sauté pan over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add the onion and sauté until golden. Add the mushrooms and sauté until brown. Stir in the flour, and then slowly add the stock, stirring constantly.
Heat the half-and-half in a saucepan over low heat. Add it to the mushrooms along with the nutmeg, bay leaf, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and simmer over low heat until the flavors meld, about 10 minutes; do not boil. Remove the bay leaf and serve.